Once
I got back to the house T's sisters were all changed and waiting
with their respective groups of friends. As proof positive of
my state of mind, I went up to K's adorable 18-year-old boyfriend
and say, "You are so cute." I think I
even poked him in the chest when I said it. Then I went to get
a glass of champagne.
Uncle Jack, not anyone's
uncle really, but actually T's uncle-by-marriage's brother, was
sitting on the porch sipping whiskey. When I walked past him he
asked in his Louisiana drawl, "Hannah darlin, where y'all
goin?" I told him I didn't know, but that it was up to RG,
and Uncle Jack said that there was a great blues bar called Le
Bon Temps that he wanted to go to, and why didn't I round everyone
up to go there.
So we piled into the back
of some guy's truck, a group of 20-somethings and Uncle Jack,
and drove off towards Magazine Street. (And when I say piled,
I mean it. We should've gotten 87,000 different traffic tickets
for that little stunt.)
The bar, like a lot of
places in New Orleans, was old and built almost like a shotgun
house, with a bar in the front and a narrow hallway leading into
a back room, where the band was staged. We got drinks and I started
playing pool with one of RG's really, really cute friends (who
I seriously think I might have kissed, innocently of course),
and J and an old neighborhood kid from Spring, Texas. Last time
I saw this kid he was 13 and I was like, Dude - I used to baby-sit
your ass.
I got bored with pool
in about 39 seconds and so I traipsed to the back room where the
Atlanta girls were watching the band. Court was dancing with Uncle
Jack, and I went over and cut in.
He's a really good dancer,
and despite my wearing flip flops, I did a pretty good job of
keeping up. I really wish there was some way to package up Uncle
Jack and sell him all to you, but there are just no words. Let's
just say, I would not be surprised, if in some point in the past
Uncle Jack thought to himself at some time, I just have to
wait a few more years for that one, about me or someone else
like me. But yet, it's not creepy, because well, he's Uncle Jack.
So we danced and he complimented
me on keeping up with his "drunk ass" and he said something
like, whenever he asks a woman to dance they always assume that
he wants to [ahem] them, and it ain't about that. It's about dancin.
Personally, I just like the spinning.
When the song ended I
skittered back up to the front, stealing a french fry from some
guy's basket along the way. Details are a blur, but I do recall
taking a cigarette out of RG's cute friend's mouth and quizzing
him on his history. I really wish I could tell y'all his full
name because you would drop dead from the stereotypical Southerness
of it, but let me just say he can trace himself back to signers
of the Louisiana Purchase. Maybe that's when I kissed him.
Around 2:30 a.m. some
of the Atlanta girls were ready to go, so we had the bartender
call us a cab and RG made us promise to call him tomorrow to make
plans for the following night. Of course I didn't see him the
rest of the weekend, so it's a good thing we hugged tightly and
I made him promise to take care of himself.
Sunday morning came quickly,
but I had to drag myself out of bed because some of T's paternal
family was hosting a brunch at the house. T and C were already
on their way to Hawaii, or at least on their way to the airport,
by the time we regrouped and left the hotel. Allison, the MOC
and I caught a ride with my mother and stepfather, who'd already
packed in a touristy trip to the cemeteries that morning.
In the glaring light of
the morning-after the house looked much different. Burned down
candles sat sadly on the tables on the porch and a small piece
of wedding cake sat wrapped up in the formal room.
We, of course, went right
to the bar for bloody marys and mimosas and loaded our plates
with cheeses, eggs and fruit. It was only after Al and I had full
plates that we noticed the jambalaya, but if you think that stopped
us you'd be seriously wrong. I think I had no less than five plates
of jambalaya.
On one of my trips back
inside I passed Uncle Jack who was wearing shorts, knee socks
and some safari-looking hat that had a string keeping it around
his neck. (He also arrived at the house on his bicycle that has
a milk crate afixed to the back.) He asked if we'd had a good
time the previous night but I just wanted to run away.
After we had more than
our fill we went back to the hotel to pick up Hallie, who had
a bit of a rough morning, and to lose Allison, who'd had too many
mimosas. Which left Super Trooper MOC stuck with me and two other
girls he didn't know well. (There are a million good things to
say about Chris, but the foremost in light of this day, is that
he's a good sport.)
We took the streetcar
down to Canal Street and ran into a Lady Footlocker where Court
and I bought these slipper-like DKNY slides because neither of
us were bright enough to pack comfortable shoes. We walked the
Quarter for a few hours, hitting Jackson Square, the French Market
and of course, Cafe Du Monde. The whole time we were wandering
around Court kept pointing out former spots of debauchery from
Mardi Gras '99. "Hey! That's where that guy ran into the
horse's ass!"
On our way back up Bourbon
Street, towards the streetcar, we passed a gay bar, whose doors,
like all bars in the Quarter, were wide open. There were nice
looking male specimens shaking their groove thing up on the bar
and we stood there, mouths agape, for a few minutes. Court kept
pushing me to go inside, and as I was standing in the doorway
one of the guys inside leaned over to me and said "Nasty
boys." "Beautiful boys," I responded, which caused
him to crack up. When we turned around to leave there was a chubby,
four-eyed 11-year-old girl standing slack-jawed on the sidewalk
staring in, looking like she'd just landed on Mars.
We hopped in a cab and
went back to the hotel to clean up and rest before dinner. The
whole ride back we planned out the night before us and I was practically
bouncing out of my seat at the thought of impending karaoke.
We met back up at 7 p.m.
to catch the hotel-provided shuttle down to the Quarter, but we
unfortunately missed it. So we walked across the street to the
neutral ground to wait for the streetcar. There was a large group
of lesbians wearing matching yellow T-shirts embroidered with
"Road Trip 2002" and denim shorts. They jokingly told
us that they were a volleyball team. "Or maybe a softball
team!" They were all clearly bombed, but they were also funny
and made the short ride downtown entertaining.
There's just something
that happens in the Quarter when the sun goes down that makes
it feel less sad and more alive. Maybe it's because the neon signs
look pretty and not garish, or that you don't notice the garbage
as easily. Although you can still smell it.
We walked down Bourbon
Street toward The Gumbo Shop, which is on St. Peter, soaking in
the Disney for grown-ups vibe and trying to figure out what kind
on convention was in town.
The wait to eat was relatively
short, even though we had to split into two tables of four, which
left Al, MOC, Court and I together. (As we were waiting in line
Chris, Al and I were talking about one of the films from SXSW
2001 that featured a group of guys from Oklahoma who fish with
their hands. Allison was trying to remember what they called it,
and I, using my brilliant copywriting intellect, said: "Hand-fishin'?"
Actually, it's called Noodling and a woman standing behind us
apologized for eavesdropping, but said that her sister [or somebody]
had dated one of the Noodlers in the film. I just thought that
was funny. And random.)
As soon as we sat down
Al pointed to the pretty orange drink she saw at the table behind
us and we decided, no matter what it was, that we'd get one. Y'all
know it was a hurricane, right? Welcome to drink uno.
I had this amazing crawfish
pasta and as we ate with gusto conversation revolved around engagement
rings and stories. The MOC and his Lady Cheese got to recount
their story again, and I never get sick of hearing it. And as
is par for the course both Court and I tried on her ring, but
Court took it a step farther pretending to wave to people across
the room and point at things.
After dinner the rest
of them whimped out, as I suspected they would, so it was just
Al, Chris and me. Our next stop was Pat O'Brien's and The Cheeses
were shocked when I told them I'd actually never been there before.
(As far as I'm concerned, that place is to be avoided like summertime
Dallas blacktop during Mardi Gras.) The MOC went up to the patio
bar and ordered three hurricanes while I stood mesmerized by the
Fountain of Fire! (You have to say it like that - Fountain
of Fire!)
We lucked out and found
a back table in the piano bar and got to work on our drinks. (And
initially, it is work.) We listened as the ladies played old favorites,
including one of Al's much-beloved George Jones ditties, and cheered
loudly when they broke into "The Yellow Rose of Texas."
After they finished playing a table off to our left broke into
"Deep in the Heart of Texas." Of course the three of
us joined in, clapping and all.
After I was about not
even halfway done with my drink, I looked over in Al's cup and
she was already sucking the remaining 'cane nectar out of the
fruit. So I gave a little of my drink to her and the MOC and chugged
the rest and we were out.
We walked across Bourbon
to the best karaoke bar evah, The Cat's Meow. (And can I just
say thank the lord their karaokecam archives are only up for 24
hours.) I headed straight for the sign-up area and ran into three
of the ATL girls, including Court. Yay! I put my name in and doubled
back to the bar, picking up two beers and a vodka tonic for myself.
There was a lot of singing,
and not a little dancing, and drinking. At one point the MC went
and got a tray full of shots to pass out to the crowd. For some
reason he handed me the first one, and started passing out the
rest based on conditions like - The first person with a Texas
driver's license, the first person wearing a black bra etc. (I
won't tell you how Court got her shot.)
Finally it was my turn
to sing, and when I walked up there the MC said: "Ladies
and Gentlemen - Uma Thurman!" And then I rocked the mic with
Cher's "If I Could Turn Back Time," one of my standbys.
I pretty much just sang right to Al and even reenacted the "drove
a knife deep into my heart" line. It was brilliant.
I'm sure I went and got
another beer after that and we watched a few laughably bad performers
and a cute group of girls do Madonna's "Like a Prayer"
complete with a little choreographed dance. Then the Atlanta girls
and I got up to sing "Material Girl," but I don't really
remember that part so well.
After that, because
it was on the spreadsheet, we stumbled down to Lafitte's
Blacksmith Shop, supposedly the oldest structure used as a
bar in North America. On the way down Bourbon Street we passed
a group of tourists trying to get more tourists up on a balcony
to throw them Mardi Gras beads. As we walked past a pretty cute
guy I fingered the string around his neck and said: "Y'all
know it's May, right?" He clearly didn't get it.
Lafitte's
looks like it's going to fall down and inside it's extra
dark and history-flavored. (I think the MOC was in his own personal
beer soaked, American history tinged heaven.) The Atlanta girls,
looking as though they were going to fall down, called
it a night, leaving Al, Chris and me.
I can't really tell you
anything else because we made a pact, sealed with Gouda, that
anything said in Lafitte's stays in Lafitte's. And really, my
recollections of our conversation are spotty at best.
I do remember, however,
that instead of going to the bar to get us all a drink, Chris
would get one beer at a time that we'd all share. Of course, he
made no less than three trips. Finally, around too late o'clock
(keep in mind I'm staying in a room with my mother), we
left this little ramshackle bar to go back to the hotel.
We hop in a cab I flagged
down on Bourbon, and for some crazy reason, decided it was a good
idea for me to tell Chris the naked football player story.
Let's just say that I got more detailed than I did in that entry
and that I have no doubt the driver pushed record on some creepy
device.
Needless to say, Monday
morning came all too quickly. After sleeping in as much as a I
could, while my mom and stepfather were off at the D-Day museum,
I rolled myself off the sofa bed. I showered and repacked and
tried not to throw up. We ate lunch, where I had my only po-boy
of the trip, at Copeland's before they drove me to the airport.
It hit me in a really
weird way, as my mom and stepfather drove away, leaving me curbside
at the airport, with my little green rolly suitcase in one hand
and my bouquet in the other, that Atlanta is my home now. I had
to walk past the gates for Cincinnati and Houston, to D3, where
a plane bound for Hartsfield would take me home.
It was an amazing long
weekend, and even though my right knee is still all puffy and
jacked up from god knows what, every moment was worth it.
The notify
mourns my unemployment.
The forum
is waiting for you to delurk.
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